There are all kinds of reasons I could give you for picking Athens as the place to spend the first two months of 2025.
I could tell you that I have never been to Greece before, except for one brief day in Crete two years ago. Or that I have always been kind of a Greek/Roman classics/archeology geek. Or that I love Greek food.
But the truth is ... it was cheap. I was able to find a lovely, modern, two bedroom, fifth-floor apartment, with great balconies, walking distance from the Athens city centre, for less than $50 CDN a day all in.
So here I am until March 4 -- alone for now but with the usual cast of friends/family preparing to join me, one by one, at various points throughout this stay.
Living in the Greek capital for an extended period means I can take things at a slower pace than I have on previous vacations. I don't need to cram all of the tourist sights into a couple of days. And I am hoping to really get to know the place.
I arrived Saturday after a 13-hour plane trip with a layover in Paris.
Warning to anyone flying at this time of year -- bring a mask. Every person sitting next to me, whether on the aircraft or in the terminals, was coughing up a lung. Fotunately, I seem to have come through unscathed except for the usual jet lag.
I caught a taxi and landed at the apartment so tired I could barely think straight. And you never know whether what you see online will meet expectations. But this place is just lovely. The bathroom has been fully updated, the bedrooms are large and comfortable, the balcony space is exceptional, and there is a dedicated workspace where, yes, I will occasionally do the things people pay me to do.
Knowing that the following day was a Sunday and that stores would be closed, and that Monday was the national holiday of Epiphany and also a store-closing day, I dropped my things and dragged myself to the grocery store just around the corner to stock up on provisions. Among my purchases was store-made moussaka which served as dinner that evening.
I ate, I unpacked, and I fell fast asleep.
On Sunday morning, I decided to get my first real glimpse of the city. I had read that, even though most shops are closed Sundays, there is an interesting flea market near Monastiraki Square in the old town which is a half hour's walk from my apartment. So I headed out on foot in the 14 C sunshine.
Because it is winter here, I was expecting chilly weather. But it has been so warm I have been quite comfortable without a coat. And on my sunny balcony, I am very happy in a tee-shirt.
The square was full of people, and there was a carnival atmosphere.
And the flea market did not disappoint. Yes, most of the stores were selling touristy things that I have no use for ... but I was there to browse, not to buy. And there were some very cool displays, including this one..
One section was devoted to antiques -- and was what I think of as a real flea market.
But most of the area was occupied by modern souvenir shops.
At the end of the long and crowded street, I unexpectedly walked into the Agora, the ancient business, legal and political centre of Athens where Greek men (ancient Greek women did not leave their homes) like Socrates philosophised about life.
It was all quite magical. I sat down on a bench and took in the stonework, the crumbled ruins, and the weathered statues. And I decided that, at some point soon, I will come back here with a guide to tell me what the blocks and buildings are all about.
Looking up from the Agora, I could see the Parthenon, the icon of this city built as a tribute to goddess Athena (with another smaller temple for Poseidon) that was constructed in the fifth century BC.
It is impossible to describe the feeling of sitting in a place that has been continously inhabited for thousands of years. And I have a feeling that I will be visiting the Parthenon multiple times over the coming months with the arrival of each new guest.
I then strolled home, took a late-afternoon nap as is customary with Athenians, and went for dinner at a charming little taverna just around the block called BeeRaki. I was the only guest seated at the rickety metal tables -- the lovely owner explained that Athenians are too full of Christmas feasting to be dining out just yet. She recommended a traditonal beef stew, and a Greek salad, and I agreed. It was delicious, and the meal, with wine, came to under 20 EU. I will be back.
On Monday, I decided to try the metro and took it out to the port of Pireaus where I walked around in the sunshine. There were some naval ships doing manoeuvers, but I did not fully understand what was going on.
This being Epiphany, the port would have been the site of of an annual ritual in which a priest throws a cross into the sea and hundreds of hardy souls dive into the chilly waters to retrieve it. The one to find it is rewarded with good luck. I was sadly a bit late for that event (I had slept in after a rough jet-lagged night).
Then I caught the heavily graffitied metro back to Monastaraki and walked the narrow, touristy, cobblestone streets to Plaka, the oldest section of town, where I had lunch of chicken marinated in yogurt.
Now I am back in my cosy apartment, contemplating the months ahead. My first guest arrives a week today so I have a few days on my own to explore and to get a feel for the place. I won't be blogging as often in Athens as I have on previous trips because, well, this is not going to be a whirlwind of travel moments. I am actually living here -- as opposed to holidaying.
But, every couple of days, I will provide updates, in part so those who are interested can follow along, but mostly so I can look back on my Athenian adventure in the years that lie ahead.
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