I had two goals this week. The first was to get better acquainted with Athens so I can pretend to be knowledgeable about the city when friends arrive. The second was to get a haircut because … damn … my head was not looking good.
Overall it has been a great few days and I am really getting to love this place.
There is extreme poverty — I have seen at least five people dumpster diving including two on my own street. The sidewalks are uneven and in serious disrepair. And there are quirky elements (you can’t flush toilet paper because Athens’ sewage system was built with tiny pipes.)
But there is just so much to see and do. And, so far I have found it very welcoming and easy to navigate (most of the signs are translated into English).
On Tuesday morning, I downloaded all of Rick Steves’ Athens walking tours and read a bit more of his guides over coffee ( which is better than Italian, not as good as Canadian), then headed out.
Rick’s Athens city walking tour starts at Syntagma Square, the site of the Greek Parliament building which was initially constructed as the palace of the King Otto (a guy they imported from Bavaria to be king after Greece won its independence from the Ottomans in 1830 but who accepted a democratic government not long after taking power.)
It was my first glimpse of the palace guards, called the Evzones, who wear a uniform with 400 pleats in the skirt that represent the 400 years the Greeks were under the rule of the aforesaid Ottomans. I will come back on a future Sunday to witness the changing of the guard which I understand to be quite a show.
I followed Rick’s gentle instructions to head toward the Plaka, via Ermou Street which is a pedestrian mall lines with high-end international chain stores. Along the way, I encountered these guys.
Then I went into the tiny Panagia Kapnikarea church, built about 1050, and lit a candle (yes, atheists can light candles without getting struck down by the gods.)
Rick’s walk took me through the Plaka, to the main cathedral. Then to Hadrian’s Arch and the massive temple of Zeus. I will be returning to that later during the visit of my youngest son who is kind of a Roman-history nut and knows more about Hadrian than is reasonable for a young Canadian lad of 34. Following Rick’s advice, I stopped for lunch at a cafe and had a chicken gyros … I thought it would be wrapped but it came out as kind of a gyros pizza. it looked a mess but was quite delicious.
Then I started the steps up the Acropolis hill. But only partway because Rick’s walk does not go fully to the top. Instead it winds through the quaint neighbourhood of Anafiotika which was built by workers from the island of Anofi who were brought here in the early 1800s to build King Otto’s palace. The homes are small, whitewashed buildings separated by narrow walkways and brightened by colorful flora and cats — so many cats. I should have taken pictures — and I will when I revisit — but I was too concerned about not getting lost. Next time.
The tour ended back down the hill at Monasteraki Square after taking me past Hadrian’s library — another highlight for the boy when he gets here. I caught the Metro home and ate dinner in.
On Wednesday morning, I walked into the city centre (I have been super good about getting 12,000 steps per day in my Fitbit) and purchased a ticket on the Big Bus which is a hop-on-hop-off tour. Some of these hop-on tours are great (Florence) and some are awful (Lisbon). This was one was on the better end, and took me to all the downtown city sites. More than that, I got a much better feel for where everything is located relative to the locations I had been previously.
I got off the bus and walked into the flea market area off Monasteraki Square where I bought a pair of boots. I really didn’t pack anything other than sneakers and figure I will need them for going out occasionally.
Then I walked to Omonia Square, which is on the way home, via the Central Market. I do have a hard time seeing animal carcasses hanging on hooks, but I toughed it out for the experience. And I know I will be back there with Cyn and/or Josie when they arrive.
Once home, I cleaned up a bit, read a bit, and then, at about 8 (Greeks eat at 9 ish but that is late for me) I walked 10 minutes to a restaurant that calls itself the Traditional Tavern. I ordered a cabbage salad ( with carrots) and the beef steak (I rarely eat red meat when I am alone in Canada but hey, maybe the market tour inspired something.) it came pounded flat and very well done — not a lot of pink left in that baby. But it was well seasoned and quite good. The meal was 17 EU including wine.
When Thursday rolled around I knew I could no longer delay the haircut so I found a highly rated salon nearby, walked over, and they took me right in. The cut, which I think was great, cost 14 EU or about 20 CDN. It’s been a long time since i got a haircut for that price!
Then I walked back to Monasteraki Square hoping to take the second tour with the Big Bus. The ticket is good for 48 hours and includes three tours, One of the three is really just a shuttle to the cruise ships, but I wanted to do the one that stretches along the coast.
Along the way to the square, there were some spectacular examples of the wall murals that adorn so many buildings in this city. Like those above and below.
And there were also long alleys lined with graffiti, which seems to be tolerated as part of the urban street scene.
When I arrived at Monasteraki Square, I was told that the bus would not be coming because of the funeral that was happening that day for ex-president Costas Simitis who served between 1996 and 2004. If I walked to the Syntagama Sqaure, the guide said, I could catch the tour there. But, just as I arrived at Syntagama, the funeral procession started. So I waiting for nearly an hour in the sun watching the tribute to the late president.
Then I caught the Big Bus to take the coastal tour. It was nearly two hours long and kind of chilly up top. But, one of the advantages of visiting Greece in the off season is that things are not crowded and i practically had the whole bus to myself.
The coast really was beautiful.
There were even some folks sunbathing in the beach but I assume they were tourists. The Greeks in downtown Athens are mostly bundled in parkas as they brave the 16 C weather.
Back at the city centre, the bus driver dropped me at the Omonia Metro stop and I headed home where I am now contemplating dinner of last night’s steak leftovers. Or I could go back to BeerAki … it’s still early in Athens and maybe I will venture back out.
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